Opening Season.....A great Gifford family tradition has always been too enguage in the time honored tradition of Black bear hunting. Though dad has always prefered a high caliber rifle, and mom prefers the compound bow. I have always been partial too the eight inch piece of steel which is attached to the end of my traditional wari spear. So, as tradition has always dictated, we headed into the slickrock wilderness two days before opening season. Because we prefer to not use dogs it often takes a few days to track and locate a bear in this rugged terrain. We spent three days in the slickrock area, and unfortunaty did not kill one bear. Actually, we didn't even see a bear. And now as i reminise upon our time honored family tradition, which traces back to dawn of time. I actually can't recall a Gifford family member EVER slaying a bear. Regardless, we had a great time examing bear scat and enjoying the wonderful weather that NC is blessed with in the fall. So, maybe next year we'll get a bear. our time is coming....


Pictures:(above)mom...yet another creek crossing.(below) Upper Slickrock creek.

The Green Canoe .....
As our green canoe turned 20 last spring, I think back and wonder how many stories it could tell. You see; it's part of our family and certainly deserves a place of honor on the Family Blog.
It has primarily lived it's entire life on the Harpeth River and, when not in use, it patiently sits in our back yard waiting for the next trip from the rope swing to our house. Cold winter snow, driving rain, and months of heat and summer sun; all this builds character for a green canoe!
In it's youth, it was paddled upstream and parked on a gravel shoal day after day, while boys built forts and shared dreams and schemes. The green canoe heard it all and never gave an opinion of it's own. On weekends, it would take the entire family, with Max the dog, on river trips looking for herons fishing and turtles basking on logs. How much fun for a geen canoe!
Then the real work began, as the boys became teenagers and the stories got more interesting! It was paddled and floated and hoisted on cars. Up muddy banks, pulled over rocks, trown into trucks and then to rest again...but not for long. It took daylight trips and moonlight floats and never stopped helping love and friendships form for a lifetime. It took brothers and sisters and cousins and friends, and safely returned everyone home again. If only the Green Canoe could talk; the stories it could tell would be priceless. Claudia Gifford

Boredom at work = photoshop work or Kayak Sequence.

A few more Grand Canyon Pictures....

HAPPY MOTHERS DAY! just a reminder of how much you´re boys love you. have a great day!

Don't ever let me forget the awe inspiring beauty of the Grand Canyon. The bats dancing through the black sky with stars as their background. The sheer canyon walls climbing toward heaven displaying a millions of years of work. The unforgetable color of the cold green water as it changes from calm to roaring rapids, pushing itself down the canyon to show layers and layers of rock, all having stories to tell. The great horned sheep proudly standing on the cliffs. The funny ravens trying to steal anything not tied down. The rattlesnakes greeting us at campsites and watching us as we made camp. The ringtail cats silently walking around our tents at night and leaving only footprints to show us that they were there. Sand in your tent, sand in your sleeping bag, sand in your morning coffee, sand everywhere. Don't ever let me forget the beautiful sound of the canyon wren and the soaring peregrine falcons and hawks. The beautiful mule deer with their delicate face and long ears. The ten foot wingspan of a california condor. The many different kinds of squirrels from two inches long to ones who will take a whole bag of food out of your hand and run off with it. The competency and caring hearts of our six guides as they took us through amazing but difficult canyon hikes, cooked fantastic meals , taught us about river lore, history, botony and geology. The joy of getting to know 24 perfect strangers and living with them for a week. The crashing waves of fourty degree water over my head and the great feeling of kayaking down a rapid in the Colorado River. The love and encouragement of my family to go on an adventure by myself. The difficulty of hiking out of the canyon with a 30 pound pack and friends who kept me going toward the top. Don't ever let me forget to tell everyone they must do something like this. Would I do it again? Don't ever let me forget that I certainly would.

Happy Easter! We happened to be in northern Chile on Easter Sunday, and traveled out of town to visit a local church. As, it turned out we seemed to have missed the service. And subsequently opted to go on a long bike ride through a maze of Canyons in the Atacama Desert. We completed about a 25km loop in the afternoon, and were all surprised how perfect the terrain was for riding mountain bikes. After following horse tracks into one corridor after another. We finnally locked into a winding canyon, that was essentially a mild downhill for about 5km. The scenery was fantastic! And mom, i kept thinking how much you would have enjoyed it. i hope you all had a great day! i love you. talk to you soon........

Pictures:(above)the local church. (below) view from the bell tower. Testing the quality of the rental bike. canyon view. We found this spread once we exited the canyon. i know it is a bit weird, But it appeared to be some sort of easter sacrifice. So, the cultural context trumped the weirdness. if anyone has an insight into this easter ritual. i am very curious

Southwestern Bolivia is surreal. it is a landscape unlike anything i have ever imagined. The nature of this unique corner of Bolivia is only hightend by the contrast of obsurd landscapes. it seems as if i was constantly cleaning my sunglasses, only to realize that the colors i was witnessing were not due to blimishes on my lenses. But, was merely a chemical or geological phenominom that created this unique landscape. This region has been popularized in the past half century due to the paintings by Salvador Dali. Apparantly, he spent quite a bit of time in the Salar. Which subsequently offered inspirations for some of his landscapes. Along with his Critical-Paranoiac Method he was able to further transform on canvas his physical and mental projections. According to Sal,"Paranoiac-critical activity makes the world of delirium pass onto the plane of reality." i will leave the interpretation up too the reader.

Regardless, of how Mr. Dali interpreted the region. The landscape of southwestern bolivia offers a taste of delirium in the plane of reality. We departed the small desert town of uyunni and immediatly were thrust onto the salt flats. for the entire day we raced across the vast blanket of white. Feeling much more like we were flying than driving. Except for the constant reminder that we were in a landcruiser. This reality would only set in when the truck would come to a stop, and the crew was givin the opportunity to walk on the clouds for a while. Any islands, or masses of land, that seemed to avoid being swallowed by the white lake. Appeared to be ancient coral beds that were presently covered with gigantic cacti. To add too the oddity of the region, certain sections were entirely covered with about four inches of water. creating, once agian, the appearance of driving across a lake. This first day could lead one too belive that Bolivia is the only place in the world with ¨super cars.¨ i mean they can fly and drive on water. why can´t we get them anywhere else? wait, hold you´re order, it was merely an illusion.

Towards the end of the first day we had cleared the Salar, and as the sun was setting began to rally into the desert. As a quick sidenote for the reader; the Salar in southwestern bolivia is the largest salt flat in the world, and spreads over 12,000 square Km. So, as the sun was closing the curtain for the day our roof rack´s restaining bar snapped off. Sending our fifty gallon tank of gasoline onto the hood. Luckily nothing was lost, and we were able to rig the rack back up in order to make it to our destination for that evening.

The following morning, the desert landscape gradually changed as we began to be surrounded by massive snow covered volcanos. Between the volcanos were large lagoons, that due to their chemical content projected surreal color combinations. Some of the Lagoons had the ability to change color, which would occur when the desert winds agitated the water. The Blues would become brighter, and could evntually turn to green. One lagoon, in particular, was a deep pink. and when the level of the lagoon was reduced would turn a dark red. But the most interesting aspect of these lagoons was the large populations of pink flamingos that inhabited all of them.

Our last evening was spent next to the Lagoon de Colorado (the red one), and we rose in the dark to begin our rally toward the Geysers. Four-thirty in the morning, seemed a bit excessive. But the return trip to Uyunni was more than fourteen hours, so my lack of enthusism was quickly trumped by our driver. We arrrived at the Geysers at sunrise, and were careful not to step into any of the ¨hot pockets¨ as the day´s first light emerged. At that point it was still below freezing, so the warm thermal breezes were greeted with appreciation. As the sun rose into the sky, the desert began to warm. We had breakfast at a series of hotsprings, which were more like warmsprings. but, i am not complaining. the final push toward chile, was filled with a dramatic arrangement of volcanos and sand dunes. Some appeared as if someone had dragged a paintbrush across them. Apparantly, that was not the case. and the unnatural coloring was due to mineral deposits that had eroded sections of the mountain. We arrived in Chile later that afternoon, where we were greeted with delicious food and inflated prices. Welcome too the first world, Right? Well....maybe one and a half.

-Top of Jay Peak (Looking into Canada)
- East Coast Back-Country (Not too bad at all)
-Self portrait I call "Amazement of East Coast Back-Country"
- Not as graceful as I would of liked, but hey, it's a score.
- Again, not as graceful, but hey, It's a D


- A Day Trip to Jay Peak, VT with Chris Gore and Joey... $215

- A three day ultimate tournament in Fredricksburg, VA... $225

- Spending more money than you have, hoping that your tax return comes back in time to make rent, and it working... Priceless

I thought I would finally post some pictures of the last month. Hope everyone is doing well. Spring is finally here and I couldn't be happier! Love you all

Ten thousand feet of elevation makes a big difference. So when we arrived in Corioco, we were excited to be able to breath. For the past few weeks, most staircaises had been a challenge. So, living at under six thousand feet was very exciting. Corioco, is a quiet little town that is essentially isolated from the rest of the world by the scariest road i have ever been on. So once you are there. you are there. But the town has great accomodation, lots of trails, and is the perfect place to play. the first day we were there, we hiked out of town in search of a series of waterfalls. The trail passes by a series of small coca plantations on the way out of town and eventually you arrive at a series of waterfalls that are about five minutes apart. the whole trail is about 10km and essentially traverses a ridge. We met two new friends, Sarah and Collin, who accomponied us to the waterfalls. it was a lot of fun. So, the next morning Collin and i decided to Run back to the waterfalls before anyone else got up. we beat the sun back into Corioco, and subsequently had jumpstarted our day. Later that day, Stacy, Rob, Jess, and i walked down too another series of waterfalls and found an incrediable little canyon that we were able to scurry through. A lazy day in Corioco, resting by the pool, and we were heading back to la Paz.

photos...above... Collin, Racing the sun back into town. Below... Corioco. The reality, of the growing threat of terrorism abroad. Bolivian Coca. Rob, finding one more reason to come back to Bolivia. Heading into the Abyss.

Arriving in La Paz, we were lucky to be there when the Bolivars were playing Santa fe. Which is profesional soccer team from Colombia. This was my first profesional match so i was very excited to see what the rage was all about. As it turned out, the match we were too watch was part of the Toyota Copá Liberadors, which is the equivilent of the Champions league. The Bolivars had to win or they would be eliminated, so everything was on the line. Due to Bolivia being the fabulous country that it is, we were able to afford great seats. Which always makes a game. The first half was a battle, and it seemed that the Boliviars were trying to use there home field advantage and just run Santa Fe down. The Bolivars stadium is probley the highest stadium in the world. so, in regards to endurance, they had a huge advantage.

At the begining of the second half, Colombias coach was kicked out of the game for voicing a disagreement with the ref. While the police were escorting him off the field. Riot police moved in and surrounded the seats where the Santa Fe fans were sitting. The tension seemed to rise, but no action was taken. We were sitting in the first few covered rows, and as the second half started, clouds began to move in. I didnt think much of it, so when the rain began to fall we really did not notice. But everyone in front of us stood up and began moving frantically towards cover. Assuming the movement was releated to the riot police acting against the visiting fans, we stood, ready to flea the tear gas. or whatever was happening. After a few confusing seconds, we realized it was just a lot of people with out rain jackets trying to get an open seat. It was too funny. Late in the second half, as the rain fall in sheets. The Bolivars scored a dramatic goal, which set the stadium on fire. they held there lead for the remaining few minutes, and subsequently lived to play another day.

pictures..above.....the stadium is on fire! below...Rob, offering his opinion on the boliviars chance this evening.

Returning from the Inca Trail it is difficult to articulate how incrediable this area of the world is. For the past three days we have been wandering through ruins which are linked by the most incrediable trail system i have ever witnessed. The Incas were able to cut a trail through the Sacred Valley. building elaborate staircases, and retaining walls on the side of nearly vertical mountains. At times the staircases wind through caves, seamlessly blending organinc and manufactured infastructure. The craftsmenship is unparralled, despite the location.

So, with all good stories adversity is introduced quickly. and once again, we rose to the challenge. A group of friends in Cusco had invited us to join them on the Inca trail. but do to Carnival we were not able submit our paperwork until the two days prior to leaving. Apparantly, there is an incubation period or something like that which the goverment requires. After spending a day tracking down anyone who might be able to push the paperwork through. We ended up at the top of the ladder, talking with one of the officials who process the permits. Financial motivation is a very accepted practice in Peru. and seems to be much more like tipping than bribing. The official was open to our proposition, but explained that the computer was unwilling to cooperate. While telling us this, he lightly slapped the computer monitor which we all thought was very funny. Technology hindering progress, well kinda. While this was occuring, another offical approached whom had been listening to our conversation. and quickly recomened, just starting a day behind and catch up with our friends. So, the plan was set. We pitched the idea to the tour company, and to our guide. They all agreed it was feasable. But no one seemed confident in the potiential of the execution. Apparantly the first day, was relatively easy. Which would be about 10km. The second day, was a bit longer and happend to cross the highest pass on the trail. The second section would entail climbing from 12,000 ft to over 16,000 ft and then decending another 2,000 ft to camp. Being commited to making this happen we confidently pleaded the feasablilty of this mission. everyone went for it. and we were set.

As always there were more complications prior to setting out on the trail. The Inca Trail is strongly regulated and requires you to have a guide and porters and pass through a series of check points along the way. So, our guide issued a porter, which was not a popular assignment. and helped us work our way through the first checkpoint. We took off before our porter, and waited for a while. but decided to continue on and not waste light sitting around. Passing the first camp, we were able to pass through the second checkpoint with only a smile and a small white lie. At this point the trail begins climbing toward the first pass. As altitude increases, the amount of oxygen decreases exponitionally. i have never experienced this type of altitude, but i found myself getting crushed by the altitude. it is an odd feeling not to be able to catch you´re breath. and to loose it again climbing ten stairs. it was an incrediable climb, and due to our logistics i didn´t see a single person on the trail. Until, Darwin, our porter caught me approaching the top of the pass. I was happy to see him, and we slowly summited together and climbed slowly down the Incan staircase to camp. Darwin and i arrived at sunset about thirty minutes behind Rob. And i have never been so excited to arrive at camp. Both of my legs were shaking and if it was much farther.....well it wasn´t and we made it.

The third section is the most dramatic and passes through multiple ruins that are linked by fabulous rock staircases. Though, the day started with porters bringing hot tea to the tent. It was 5:30 am and pouring rain. needless to say we were camped at 14,000 ft and the snow line was just above our camp. the hot tea was not much of a motivation, and i could still feel my swollen legs telling me ,¨to stay right were i´m at.¨ Our group eventually motivated, once we heard that breakfast was ready. After Breakfast, we began climbing in the rain. Once i started my legs loosened up and i felt great. The scenerey was more dramatic than the prior day, due to being in the inner sancuatary of the Sacrad Valley. By Lunch, everyone was starting to get cold. Luckily, due to the nature of the trip, we arrived to our lunch destination and gathered in our large dining tent and sipped coca mate until we warmed back up. Traveling with porters is the way forward, and i can´t belive it took so long to try this. The rain picked up after lunch, and than in one glorious moment disappeared. Never to be seen again. As the Sun fully came out i arrived at the last site before Manchu Pichu. for whatever reason, there was no one there, and i took the opportunity to dry gear and lay in the sun on top of this outrageous ruin. Eventually, everyone made it there and we worked our way down a very steep section of stairs that dropped alomost 3,000 ft into our final camp.
The next morning we rose at 3:45 and after a breif bite began our final push toward the Sacred City of Manchu Pichu. Several groups were pushing up the trail at the same time. So, i took the opportunity to watch the sun rise over the Urubamba river and let all the cattle get ahead. Subsequently, i was able to hike all the way too the sun temple solo. the sun temple sits on the pass and over looks Manchu Pichu. the City of Mancu Pichu sat still in the morning light as we absorbed the signifigance of our place. Eventually, we traveled into the city and spent several hours walking around with our guide as he explained the perceived signifigance of certain areas. After a while we explored the city on our own, which was incrediable. After a few hours, the tour buses began making there way up the hill and people began to flood the city. The influx of people made it easy to leave, so as to maintain the personal experience we had just had. that afternoon we arrived in the Town of Aguas Calientes and spent the afternoon relaxing. And if you didn´t guess, there are hot springs in the town. so the next morning, we spent a few hours soaking our sore muscles before catching the train back to Cusco. the whole trip was spectacular, but it turns out there is a big river that has multiple gorges which we followed in the train. Apparantly, the river enters several other gorges as it wraps around Manchu Pichu mountain before entering the last town. The last town, which is only accessable by train, is the last access point before the river floats off into the Abyss eventually entering bolivia. The river was flooded, but the geology looked promising. And i can´t wait to come back and paddle through the Sacred Valley.....

pictures below. descending toward the last site. Another staircase built through a cave, pre dinamite. Darwin, and i heading toward the first camp. hanging out. same site as above. the Sacred City.

What a wonderful trip to New York we had. With Thomas as our resident tour guide, we left the Big Apple exhausted and enlightned after seeing everything possible in 72 hours! From the tour of the Creative Group Office to Thomas' s apartment to walking Central Park to seeing a real subway rat and some real subway characters to eating at Don Giovonis and the Westway Diner to the wonderful museum to walking down Wall Street and the World Trade Center site ...we look foward to the next visit. Thank You Thomas. And to Jay.....Que le vaya bien and I can't believe you made it through the New York subway by yourself- what a maze!

Today, i began language school which is a new challenge that i am very excited about. i am also living with a local family in cusco which is interesting. They are very nice, but family´s are always complicated. and here i am thrown in the midst. It´s a traditional family with the addition of a two year old son, whom is not afraid to express himself vocally. Cusco, is located at over 3,200M so i´m still adjusting to the altitude. Not to mention the 21 hour bus ride from lima. Which i think is about par in peru. The architecture in Cusco is startling. Some of the rockwork is merely confusing. i find myself asking, ¨how did they get it to fit like that?¨ i will send some pictures soon, and see if you have a better idea than i. i hope all is well. love ya!

BLIZZARD 2006-
I Thought I would wright and let the family know that both Chris and I have survived the biggest snow storm to hit NYC in recorded history. In reality, I had one of my favorite days in NY yet. Chris and I awoke early (10:30) to pouring snow and 30mph winds. Overnight, it had snowed 24in and it wasn't letting up anytime soon. So, the brave men we are, we headed to Westway diner for Belgium waffles and coffee. After a nice breakfast to fuel our bodies, we headed off...destination...Central Park, were we heard stories of 4 foot snow drifts and ski bunny women as far as the eye could see. Ok, maybe none of that was true but the snow was huge.
The best part of the day was the adventure Chris and I had running through the 2 foot powder in an area of Central Park known as the "Ramble". Basically, it's the most wooded area of Central Park where you could easily lose your way. We spent easily two hours jumping of rocks and navigating creek beds. I truly felt like a kid again and had a wonderful time doing it.
After the "Ramble Run" we headed to "Sheeps Meadow" to throw the frisbee for a bit. No day with Chris and I is complete without a little frisbee throwing. However, the 30mph winds didn't help much, but still fun.
The final part of the day was a surprise. On our walk back we noticed a huge crowd had gathered next to a steep rock cliff area. As we approached, we could hear yells of excitement and the "oohhhs" and "ahhhhs" were endless. What was happening was what I can only describe as the world Extreme sledding championships. Easily, 70 people had gathered to watch 10-20 daredevils huck themselves off a steep cliff over and over again. The busts and spills were priceless and I have to say the best rider was a 10 year old kid named Ryan. Well Done Ryan!
Anyway, the day as a whole was unreal. It is now time for a glass of wine and a bowl of lentil soup. Love you all and talk to you soon.