Returning from the Inca Trail it is difficult to articulate how incrediable this area of the world is. For the past three days we have been wandering through ruins which are linked by the most incrediable trail system i have ever witnessed. The Incas were able to cut a trail through the Sacred Valley. building elaborate staircases, and retaining walls on the side of nearly vertical mountains. At times the staircases wind through caves, seamlessly blending organinc and manufactured infastructure. The craftsmenship is unparralled, despite the location.
So, with all good stories adversity is introduced quickly. and once again, we rose to the challenge. A group of friends in Cusco had invited us to join them on the Inca trail. but do to Carnival we were not able submit our paperwork until the two days prior to leaving. Apparantly, there is an incubation period or something like that which the goverment requires. After spending a day tracking down anyone who might be able to push the paperwork through. We ended up at the top of the ladder, talking with one of the officials who process the permits. Financial motivation is a very accepted practice in Peru. and seems to be much more like tipping than bribing. The official was open to our proposition, but explained that the computer was unwilling to cooperate. While telling us this, he lightly slapped the computer monitor which we all thought was very funny. Technology hindering progress, well kinda. While this was occuring, another offical approached whom had been listening to our conversation. and quickly recomened, just starting a day behind and catch up with our friends. So, the plan was set. We pitched the idea to the tour company, and to our guide. They all agreed it was feasable. But no one seemed confident in the potiential of the execution. Apparantly the first day, was relatively easy. Which would be about 10km. The second day, was a bit longer and happend to cross the highest pass on the trail. The second section would entail climbing from 12,000 ft to over 16,000 ft and then decending another 2,000 ft to camp. Being commited to making this happen we confidently pleaded the feasablilty of this mission. everyone went for it. and we were set.
As always there were more complications prior to setting out on the trail. The Inca Trail is strongly regulated and requires you to have a guide and porters and pass through a series of check points along the way. So, our guide issued a porter, which was not a popular assignment. and helped us work our way through the first checkpoint. We took off before our porter, and waited for a while. but decided to continue on and not waste light sitting around. Passing the first camp, we were able to pass through the second checkpoint with only a smile and a small white lie. At this point the trail begins climbing toward the first pass. As altitude increases, the amount of oxygen decreases exponitionally. i have never experienced this type of altitude, but i found myself getting crushed by the altitude. it is an odd feeling not to be able to catch you´re breath. and to loose it again climbing ten stairs. it was an incrediable climb, and due to our logistics i didn´t see a single person on the trail. Until, Darwin, our porter caught me approaching the top of the pass. I was happy to see him, and we slowly summited together and climbed slowly down the Incan staircase to camp. Darwin and i arrived at sunset about thirty minutes behind Rob. And i have never been so excited to arrive at camp. Both of my legs were shaking and if it was much farther.....well it wasn´t and we made it.
The third section is the most dramatic and passes through multiple ruins that are linked by fabulous rock staircases. Though, the day started with porters bringing hot tea to the tent. It was 5:30 am and pouring rain. needless to say we were camped at 14,000 ft and the snow line was just above our camp. the hot tea was not much of a motivation, and i could still feel my swollen legs telling me ,¨to stay right were i´m at.¨ Our group eventually motivated, once we heard that breakfast was ready. After Breakfast, we began climbing in the rain. Once i started my legs loosened up and i felt great. The scenerey was more dramatic than the prior day, due to being in the inner sancuatary of the Sacrad Valley. By Lunch, everyone was starting to get cold. Luckily, due to the nature of the trip, we arrived to our lunch destination and gathered in our large dining tent and sipped coca mate until we warmed back up. Traveling with porters is the way forward, and i can´t belive it took so long to try this. The rain picked up after lunch, and than in one glorious moment disappeared. Never to be seen again. As the Sun fully came out i arrived at the last site before Manchu Pichu. for whatever reason, there was no one there, and i took the opportunity to dry gear and lay in the sun on top of this outrageous ruin. Eventually, everyone made it there and we worked our way down a very steep section of stairs that dropped alomost 3,000 ft into our final camp.
The next morning we rose at 3:45 and after a breif bite began our final push toward the Sacred City of Manchu Pichu. Several groups were pushing up the trail at the same time. So, i took the opportunity to watch the sun rise over the Urubamba river and let all the cattle get ahead. Subsequently, i was able to hike all the way too the sun temple solo. the sun temple sits on the pass and over looks Manchu Pichu. the City of Mancu Pichu sat still in the morning light as we absorbed the signifigance of our place. Eventually, we traveled into the city and spent several hours walking around with our guide as he explained the perceived signifigance of certain areas. After a while we explored the city on our own, which was incrediable. After a few hours, the tour buses began making there way up the hill and people began to flood the city. The influx of people made it easy to leave, so as to maintain the personal experience we had just had. that afternoon we arrived in the Town of Aguas Calientes and spent the afternoon relaxing. And if you didn´t guess, there are hot springs in the town. so the next morning, we spent a few hours soaking our sore muscles before catching the train back to Cusco. the whole trip was spectacular, but it turns out there is a big river that has multiple gorges which we followed in the train. Apparantly, the river enters several other gorges as it wraps around Manchu Pichu mountain before entering the last town. The last town, which is only accessable by train, is the last access point before the river floats off into the Abyss eventually entering bolivia. The river was flooded, but the geology looked promising. And i can´t wait to come back and paddle through the Sacred Valley.....
pictures below. descending toward the last site. Another staircase built through a cave, pre dinamite. Darwin, and i heading toward the first camp. hanging out. same site as above. the Sacred City.
